Tag Archives: pie

A brief stopover in Sydney

Sydney gets around 340 sunny days a year. Typically, we arrived in the midst of a torrential downpour; our first night in the city saw us sprinting to the restaurant nearest to our hostel and then begging to be seated next to the heater so we could dry out our soaking clothes.

The following morning most of the puddles had dried out and we were able to see Sydney in all its glory.

Obviously the first place we headed to was the harbour, to get the obligatory snaps of the Opera house and Sydney Harbour Bridge.

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We also took a walk around the city centre, pointing out some quintessential Aussie symbols like this kangaroo and emu statue.

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Our wanderings took us through the lush Botanic Gardens: one of the best city parks I have ever seen.

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Another lovely walk was around the coast from Bondi Beach to Coogee.

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Now we are nearing the end of our travels, Mark and I have been looking back over the places we have visited and debating which has the best scenery, food, beaches, and so on. Sydney wins “place with the most beautiful people” hands down. It’s easy to see why: the mild weather year round means active leisure is a way of life (not counting the rainstorm on our first day, the “winter” days we experienced were more than 20 degrees).

The Australians are rather literal people; place names in Sydney tend to avoid poetry or obscure references and describe at face value instead. For example, The Rocks is an area which is quite…rocky; the Snowy Mountains nearby are…snowy mountains.

We learnt that Manly, an area of Sydney which must be accessed by ferry, was so named because one of the early European settlers was impressed by the local Aborigine muscly physique.

Manly was a picturesque place to watch the sun set.

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The ferry gives you some great views of the famous landmarks, particularly after the sun goes down.

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We couldn’t leave Sydney without saying hello to some kangaroos, wallabies and koalas so off we went to Featherdale Wildlife Park. I was in my element; I couldn’t believe how friendly the animals were.

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wombat

wombat

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It’s not possible to cuddle koalas in New South Wales; you’ve got to go to Queeensland for that. Although they seem cute, fluffy and docile they have pretty savage claws so a tentative stroke was enough!

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This baby kangaroo was being handed around so it would become comfortable around humans.

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Food wise, we indulged in a Sydney institution, a “tiger” pie from Harry’s Cafe de Wheels. The iconic food cart in the Woolloomooloo area (which incidentally is probably the most fun place name to say) is plastered with loads of pictures of Harry’s celebrity fans eating their pies.

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A “tiger” is a meat pie topped with mash, proper marrowfat mushy peas and gravy.

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We couldn’t visit Sydney without spending a morning having brunch at one of Bill Granger’s legendary cafés. The eggs lived up to the hype.

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An even better treat was being able to catch up with friends on the other end of the globe – this lovely lady is Clea, who I used to work with in London.

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PS – Although we don’t have photographic proof, Mark and I both did skydives in Sydney! The plan was to skydive in Queenstown, New Zealand, but bad weather stopped play. My instructor was so fun and enthusiastic that I was seriously considering a major career change until Mark pointed out I was probably just still high on adrenalin. Fair point!

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Queenstown: Winter Festival, skiing, bungy and general indulgences

Some people thought we were mad to travel to New Zealand in June, mid-winter down under. “If I had six months off work to travel, I would stick to hot climates and beaches”, they said.

Mark and I, however, love winter – especially snow. Soon after we met, one of the first things he ever asked me was whether I ski. When I replied that I had lived and worked in the Alps for two whole ski seasons I could almost see the giant box he was ticking inside his head.

Some of our best trips and happiest memories together have been in ski resorts. We are even talking about having a winter wedding, partly because of the appeal of a honeymoon in the mountains…

So we were excited about the prospect of getting some time on the slopes in NZ, and even more so when we heard that there would be a “Winter Festival” in Queenstown at the end of June.

Unfortunately the Winter Festival was hardly the Glastonbury in the snow we had hoped for; the only evidence of any kind of festival were a few flimsy signs dotted around town. Hardly any of the standup comedy, freestyle ski and snowboard performances and general boozy partying promised on the festival’s website could be found.

Still, we were there with Anya and her friend Russ who had flown down from Auckland for a long weekend, so we were able to make our own fun.

The ski fields in NZ are all smaller than what we are used to in Europe or the States – just a handful of lifts and pistes. Luckily the conditions were great after a big dump, so plenty of snow to play in anyway.

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Gabby the campervan came into her own for skiing – it was brilliant having a massive vehicle for all of our gear, not to mention a warm, dry place to make lunch and avoid the crowded, pricey cafe on the mountain.

making lunch

making lunch

As Russ couldn’t ski, the next day was a day of indulgence at the Amisfield Winery in nearby Arrowtown. We all went for the “trust the chef” option: five courses with wine matching made for several enjoyable hours of indulgence.

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beetroot and apple soup

beetroot and apple soup

bluenose fish

bluenose fish

Unlike the time in Argentina, Mark and I managed not to fall asleep on the lawn, although it did look rather tempting.

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Instead, we sneaked into Anya & Russ’ s posh resort for some spa time and to watch the sun set.

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It’s a hard life!

Although such languid relaxation is possible, Queenstown is more about extreme adrenalin rushes. Mark had never done a skydive and I had only done one in Oxfordshire, with delightful views of the M4 and a sewage plant. So we were both keen to take the plunge (literally). Regrettably it wasn’t to be – bad weather meant our booking was cancelled four times and we left NZ without jumping out of a plane.

We consoled ourselves with visits to Queenstown’s legendary Fergburger and next door, Fergbaker for classic NZ pies. The “Ferg”empire is so famous, people we met in Peru told us we had to go!

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We also had some lovely walks around the lake.

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But all was not lost in our quest for adventure: I signed up for the 134m Nevis bungy jump, the biggest in Australasia. There were smaller ones around Queenstown but I figured if I was going to ignore every sane instinct and fling myself off a tiny ledge into stomach-churning freefall, I may as well get a superlative under my belt. “Go big or go home” as they say around here!

Even weeks later, I’m thrilled to say I did it! Definitely one of the scariest challenges of my life, although the most intense fear came in the days leading up to the jump. I tortured myself with ill advised Google searches for things like “bungy death”, “bungy accident” etc which Mark thought was hilarious (easy for him to laugh when he refused even to consider signing up).

On the day however, something took over and I became very focused. The music choices played on the way there helped. Fact: nothing makes you feel more of an invincible badass than “Eye of the Tiger”.

Before bungy

Before bungy

ready to go

ready to go

Of course, the stomach flips returned as my turn to jump got nearer. One of the Nevis team led me to the ledge. I vividly remember how hairy his forearm was, I was gripping on to it so hard.

He gently extracted himself and just as my mind began to race, he simply said, “don’t think about it, just do it, 3, 2, 1″… Magically, obediently, as if possessed I shut down my rational consciousness and leant forward, as if diving into a swimming pool.

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Rational thought returned the instant freefall began. I was so shocked I had jumped I didn’t even scream, but just took it all in, wide eyed and gasping at the ground accelerating towards me. Somehow I remembered that I was meant to pull a cord to release my feet on the second bounce – as soon I was the right way up I began giggling uncontrollably with pure joy and relief.

After I was pulled up to the solid floor of the cable car, the feeling of euphoria was unmatched.

After bungy - manic grin and teary eyes

After bungy – manic grin and teary eyes

For the video, click here.

Although the bungy wasn’t for him and his pesky fear of heights, Mark also experienced a similar moment of insanity and glory on the Nevis swing, the world’s biggest swing.

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We did this in tandem which was great fun. I thought it would be a cinch after the bungy but it was a pretty terrifying drop – what made it easier was the fact that someone else pushed the release button rather than the crucial moment being all down to you.

In any case, the wise words of the steady, calm Nevis worker have now become a life mantra for me: “don’t think about it, just do it”. That goes for anyone considering longterm travel too!